So, my machine is a Brother LS-2125. It is a hardy model, with a good bit of power and some
fairly standard options. It will make a perfect example of your average sewing machine. Now, the truth of the matter is that you can spend A LOT of your hard-earned dough on an expensive sewing machine. The other part to that truth is that, for most if not almost all purposes, there's no need. Now, don't skimp and try to make one of those $20 mini-jobbies from Canadian Tire do what a full-size can do. No matter what the packaging says, I just don't believe you can get the full functionality of a sewing machine out of one of those. However, unless you want, for whatever unknown reason, a computerized machine that you can direct to embroider specific, delicate patterns from your desktop, you will never need to spend any more than $200. Honestly, a $50 - $100 model will do most of whatever you can dream up. And if money is tight, which I can fully understand, feel free to check out the classifieds or Craigslist and Kijiji for used models. Sewing machines as a whole are pretty durable little devils, and the older Kenmore that I had still worked fine, save one crucial thing: sewing feet. However, hold that for a moment because we will certainly discuss that a bit later on. Cost differences in this range are usually because of how many stitching functions are available in the machine. 'Stitching functions?', you say. Well, funny you should mention that.
This particular model comes with 14 different stitching function, which you can see in the image. What exactly they are all used for I will get to in a moment but here's the most VITAL stitches you will need: a zig-zag stitch that has some adjustability (settings 2 to 5), and a basic straight stitch with some adjustability for stitch length (settings 6 to 10). And also, a button holing stitch (stitch setting 1 in the image) is so useful that I really can't leave it out. Yes, that's it. The other settings are nice and all, but if you hardly ever use them, why pay for them?
Now, I add a caveat here about these settings: not all setting wheels are equal. Why? Well, on my previous sewing machine (which as I said was a 15 to 20 year old Kenmore), there was a dial to select the stitch style (straight, zig-zag, etc), then two switches to select the stretch in the stitch and also the length of the stitch. And if you go out and decide to find a used model, you may come across this particular method of stitch selection (most newer models use the form of stitch selection shown in the picture). Now this older version of selection was in some ways almost better. It allowed for a greater degree of flexibility. However, there are somethings to be said for a newer machine too, so I'll let you decided what you go with.
In regards to the actual stitching functions, they are many and varied. Your manufacturer's instruction manual will tell you about what you might use the stitches for and how to set them up, but in terms of the basics, here's what you need to know.
A straight stitch is the type of stitching you will use the majority of the time. A longer stitch (so something like a 9 or a 10 in the image) is used for what's called 'basting'. Basting is basically a loose stitch that, for a lot of purposes, just works as a test stitch to check for fit of garments and projects, and since it is so long, it's really easy to remove, or rip out, if the need arises. More on it's other function in later posts. Shorter stitches, like settings 6 and 7 are used most often for sewing two pieces of material together that you would like to stay together on a permanent basis. They can be removed, but not nearly as easily as the basting stitches.
A zig-zag stitch is exactly what it sounds like it would be, but in spite of what you might think, a zig-zag stitch can be extremely useful. In addition to being decorative, it's what use can use to finish the edges of fabric. Since fabrics left to their own devices with fray (just another word for start to unravel at the edges), we need some way to 'seal' the edge of the fabric so that this doesn't happen. In many cases, a zig-zag stitch can do just that. When we start our first project, we'll see just how useful it can be in action.
Finally, the button-hole setting. If you have ever had to attempt to make a button hole by hand, you will consider this setting a blessing. Button-hole settings are usually broken into 3 separate stitches: the top and bottom, the left side and the right side. Also, button-hole stitches require a special sewing foot.
Ah, what a fantastic segway into the next section: sewing feet, or presser feet. There's a picture of one in the image to the left. For specifically which part it is, see the picture on the left, which is a picture of a regular sewing foot, which is good for the straight stitch and also, in most cases, the zigzag stitch. Other feet that might come with your machine include a button-holing foot as well as a button foot,
which can be used to sew a button on to a shirt or some pants. Finally, the zipper foot, which is indispensible. You can sew on a zipper with the regular foot, but trust me: it's not an easy nor a calming task. You may have other feet, but they'll be explained and described in your manual. Now, for those of you who want to purchase a used machine, pay attention: when you go to look at the machine, check to see what feet are still with it. You want the button-holing foot, the regular foot, the zipper foot and possibly a darning plate (next post! I promise I'll tell you what the heck that plate is). My old machine only had the regular plate and boy, did I surely miss that zipper foot and the button-holing foot.The way these feet attach to your particular machine will depend on the machine, so check your manual! If you lost it, or like my boyfriend, chose to throw it out, you can usually find a copy on the website of your manufacturer.
Well, I had planned to cover more, but since this is hugely long already, I think we'll wait next time to go over more.
Next time,
Jada
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